Jonny Kydd – Summer Sets In

By Jonny Kydd (TCA Staffer and Black Diamond Hero)

TCA Bristol Staffer and Black Diamond Hero shares more gems he's encountered on his trip to Magic Wood.

Summer has definitely made its way up to Magic Wood. I’m not sure what the exact temperature has been, but every time I go for a drive the dash is reading between 20-30 degrees! The small rain showers have turned into full blown thunder storms (which has left some pretty impressive backdrops when it’s been lighting up the mountains) and the snow on the mountains has significantly reduced, resulting in higher river levels and leaving some problems with rather puddly landings…

(The landing under ‘Never Ending Story’ looking a bit wetter than normal)

Before the bulk of the heat set in, I had a couple of days of climbing that were pretty successful. I had been working on two 8A+’s, ‘Never Ending Story Part 1’ & ‘Sofasurfer’. I had been trying the former for longer but I felt more confident that I would get the latter done quicker, how wrong I was!

On my second session on Sofasurfer I felt super good warming up on the moves with  my first go from the start going really well. I stuck the last hard move only for my foot to pop, albeit off of a difficult to use foot hold. Before that go I was sure that if I stuck that move then I would go to the top. Little could I imaging that the exact same thing would happen for a second time, I felt as though I had defeat snatched from the jaws of victory. Sadly each session I have had on it since then has either been greeted with excessive heat or getting rained on and I’ll have to be patient and wait for the right conditions. Sadly sometimes it’s the things we can’t control that make climbing hard.

The day after getting close on Sofasurfer I got back on Never Ending Story Part 1. Just like the day before I felt really good warming up on the moves and was hoping that lightning wouldn’t strike twice with me dropping the last move again (as I had previously done on this problem!) Luckily this time things went the opposite way and I was able to get the send on my first attempt of that session. Before coming to Magic Wood I hadn’t intended on trying this climb as it’s a funny one as you don’t often get a tick from going form a sit start to the stand start of a problem. However the moves are really good and who knows maybe one day I’ll go for the whole line.

(Never Ending Story Part 1. Photo: Jamie Macleod)

For the last week I have had some welcomed company with my girlfriend joining me. This provided the opportunity for me to give my body and mind a bit of a rest from projecting and climb a few of the easier classics as we spent more time wondering around the wood. This workout out pretty well as I climbed a few classics including:

  • Grit de Luxe (7B)
  • Baptiste (7B+)
  • Jack the Chipper (7C)
  • Kalorienmonster (7C)
  • Bosna Genial (7A)
  • Panzerknacker (7A)
  • Down Under (7C+)

(Photos in order of appearance: “Jack the Chipper”, “Kalorienmonster” & “Down Under”)

But all the extra walking has had its toll on my legs and a couple of niggles seem to have developed that hopefully won’t become too much of a hinderance.

(Busy prehabbing – thanks to TCA for the Armaid)

With the temperatures rising and my time here coming to a close I’m stuck with the difficult decision of what to try. Do I try: easier problems that I’m sure I’ll send, hardish problems that I might send, or work on projects for future trips. One thing I can be sure of is that whoever thinks that Magic Wood is a good summer destination is crazy! I’m not even here in mid summer and the heat is making everything so much harder!

[ssbp]
NAVIGATION