TCA Bristol Staffer and Black Diamond Hero Jonny Kydd shares his latest update from his trip to Magic Wood.
I can’t believe that I’ve already been here for 3 weeks! With the walk in being the same each day and the novelty of not having to drive to the crag, the days seem to have merged together. It’s definitely something that I appreciate though! Having all the climbs at the same crag makes it a lot easier to decide what to climb each day.
Normally I end up taking the mornings nice and easy, as I climb better in the afternoon/evening, and head into the wood after lunch. The beauty of having everything in the same place is that if the climb you intended to get on is wet, too warm, or in bad condition you can refer to plan B and try a different project. More often than not it seems as though the conditions are the main decided of what to get on.
It can be quite challenging to get things in good condition as it rains so frequently. Fortunately there are several problems that have match finishes rather than topping out meaning that they can stay dry in the rain. And when it isn’t raining it can be just as challenging as the temperature and humidity make it sometimes more difficult to climb than a cooler wet day!
Over the last couple of weeks I have been trying to find the right balance between trying lots of climbs and getting stuck into projects. All in all it has been going fairly well with a few classic “easier” sends of:
• Super Nova (7C)
• Minisex (7C)
• The Right Hand of Darkness (8A)
• Höhenrausch (7B+)
• Höhenzone (7C)
• Vollrausch (7C)
Along with dropping the last hard moves on ‘Never Ending Story Part 1’ (8A+) and ‘Sofasurfer’ (8A+).
(Photos in order of appearance: “Super Nova”, “Minisex”, “The Right Hand of Darkness” and “Höhenzone”)
Unfortunately it hasn’t all been going my way though as a week ago I managed to pick up a stomach bug that left me unable to eat and bed bound for 3 and a bit days. The only positive out of it was that it happened over the weekend, where the campsite and the crag can be rammed by weekend warriors from Switzerland, Germany, Italy and Austria. Once I could move around again there was some of the heaviest rain I had seen so far for the following 2 days. But at least the campsite had gone back to a bit of a ghost town!
I still feel a bit like a kid in a sweet shop, not fat and charging my way to type 2 diabetes but over excited and wanting to try everything! I am still yet to even try, let alone send, so many climbs that I want to do here. Hopefully the list of both those things will reducing in the near future![ssbp]