TCA Staffer and Black Diamond Hero Jonny Kydd continues his European odyssey as he heads to Magic Wood.
I’ve finally made it to Switzerland! In total I ended up spending nearly 3 weeks back at home recovering and trying to get in the best possible condition for Switzerland. I found that after spending nearly 2 months in a wet Fontainebleau (with various injuries) that I had lost a bit of strength and raw power, two factors that are very useful to have in Switzerland. So in order to try and let my ankle heal I spent most of my time back at home on the campus board and fingerboard, along with performing rehab exercises and dry needling with electrical stimulation treatment for my ankle. Although it was hard being back home when I had time off to go travelling, I feel as though it was the right decision as my ankle is feeling much better (albeit still not 100%) and I have gained some strength back.
Initially I planned to spend some time in Ticino after Fontainebleau but after the extended time at home and a heat wave rolling in the conditions didn’t look great and the season there has probably come to a close. This led me to head to Europe’s go-to summer bouldering destination, Magic Wood.
I have only been here for a week and this place has blown my mind! This initially may of been due to me being delirious and sleep deprived after the 850 mile journey from Bristol! The scenery is definitely one of the most stunning I have have seen at a crag and I have never seen such a high concentration of hard boulders that I want to try in such a small area. Having said that, although the boulders are really close together, it’s a nightmare trying to get to each boulder. They are situated on the side of very steep wooded hill with minimal paths, making it a bit of a scramble to get to each problem. Added to this is the fact that the landings are pretty much all terrible and multiple pads are needed for each problem.
(The backdrop from the campsite. 📷 Jamie Macleod)
After my first experience of climbing here I could tell that I was going to get on with the rock type and style of climbing. This was later confirmed when trying some harder boulders. I have quickly managed to dispatch “Piranha” (7C+), “Intermezzo” (7C), “Rythmo” (7C+), “Never Ending Story Part 2” (8A) and “Massive Attack” (8A+) along with doing all the moves on “Riverbed” (8B), “Never Ending Story Part 1” (8A+) and “Jacks Broken Heart (8A+)
(Photos in order of “Piranha”, “Intermezzo”, “Rythmo” and “Massive Attack”. 📷 Jamie Macleod)
One factor that I feel as though may always be a lingering issue is the weather. Being situated in the mountains can result in many changeable conditions and I have seen heavy rain, light rain, fog, and glorious sunshine all in the same day.
(That cliff face is hidden behind the fog…)
The days of bad conditions haven’t necessarily been a bad thing as it has given me a chance to look round the wood and decided what problems I want to try, and boy is there a lot!
(Looking round the forest next to the infamous “U-Boot” (6C). 📷 Jamie Macleod)
I’m looking forward to seeing what the rest of the trip brings![ssbp]