Hello to da management ;-) What's the likelyhood of adding another harder colour above green? I understand this won't cater to the masses but perhaps a white circuit of say 6 to 10 problems would be great. Even though I think the wall is great for beginner and intermediate climbers I think it is certainly not a place where standards can be pushed and in fact is in danger of simply being regarded as a mediocre training facility. If there may be a problem with finding people able to set such harder routes then I'm more than happy to do so, in fact I'm sure there are 5 or 6 Bristol based climbers who would be more than happy to help out with this, probably free of charge. In the meantime, another minor gripe is the real lack of holds and hold variety on the 'mothership'. This great wall is really only offering about 30% of what it could, after all that effort of construction how about maximising it's potential - loads more holds please (of all varieties but certainly more positive small ones and screw ons for feet!). Presently the opportunities even to come up with our own problems are really disspointing when there are so few holds and those that there are tend to big juggy incut type ones....

Please be in touch if you'd like any help...

Cheers

Paul

Wow, have you done ALL of the green problems and the black circuit (on the circuits board)?

hehe. Thanks for your reply JT. I would say that Dave's black circuit is 50 odd moves long and therefore wouldn't really be classed as a boulder problem. It is great mind and my respects to the setter, however, it has now been up for what seems like a very long time and perhaps heavily chalked slopers in a very hot wall prove a good excuse for me being foiled so far ;-). With regards to the greens present, I would say that there are perhaps 3 problems (the v.good 15 odd move route on the large roof at the back of the wall, a great problem to the left of the circuit board and one on the very steep front face of the mothership) which warrant being in the range of a potential white circuit (of which I'm still to crush two :-)) but surely a fulfilling session should provide slightly more to go at, even if this were simply the opportunity to make up several variations on the steeper wall (i.e. mothership) should lots and lots more holds be put on :-). Again i understand that this won't appeal to the masses, but if you have people psyched enough to set these routes for free what is there to lose??

Cheers

Paul

Hello again, thanks for getting in touch Paul. First things first, we have recently seen the news of your accident and wish you all the best with your recovery. With regards to your comments, I also think a smaller harder circuit would be great, fantastic news that something like this is being considered. Perhaps something of say 20 moves max (more attuned to power endurance rather than a stamina route fest) and fingery and locky ;-). I understand your take on there not being so many climbers operating at the upper grades, but I actucally think there are quite a few and should they be given the tools (i.e. problems to aspire to or work over a number of sessions) then I'm sure everyone and their dog will be cranking Font 7c/8a before we know it :-). With regards to your statement regarding financial resources, I'm sure we all understand that in these times money is tight, however, I'd just like to reiterate that my services are being offered for free and I will be more than happy to continue paying my entrance fee as I feel I'll be getting value for money for a level of climbing that I am keen to progress. If you are referring to the cost of holds, then I promise to only set using small ones ;-) and you could limit the number of problems to that which fits in with costs - perhaps 6 max would be great for a mini but super tough circuit. A further benefit of a limited number of problems such as this would be that it won't in any way significant alter the look of the wall you have created. With regards to 'plastering' the mothership, even adding quite a few more holds would not in my opinion create an overbearing/confusing main wall. There really is scope for quite a few more footholds/handholds here (again in my opinion only) so that at least there is the option for alternative problems to be worked out. I understand your comments regarding the mothership becoming an 'elitest hot spot,' but couldn't disagree more. This is certainly not something that I've come across in the Bristol climbing scene and find it difficult to believe that this type of attitude would arise. I'm not saying the mothership should be exclusively hard, not at all. I can see how every level of climber is excited to get on to it!

Please only take these rantings of mine for what they are, those of someone who is really psyched to train and progress. Note that even here in sunny Brizzol, the sun don't always shine ;-).

Cheers

Paul B.

I agree that turning the mothership into an elitist wall should be avoided. An elitist atmosphere is not nice to climb in. An alternative option could be to open up the possibility for creating your own problems/eliminates. At a minimum this could potentially be done by simply providing small screw-on foot holds. Then at least then there could be both 'hands for feet' and 'screw-ons for feet' options. This way you would not have to worry about setting more and more problems plus the eliminates would be spread out around the wall avoiding any dominance. Reducing the in-cut finger jugs and increasing the number of holds on the steeper walls would potentially also help the scope for eliminates but I understand the factors constraining this.

I think the screw on idea could work well on certain sections of wall. Whilst I understand posible negatives to this approach such a painting in the future I don't think you would need to put that many on, just dotted around really. This would allow scope for climbers near the higher end, of which there are quite a few, to extend into their own self created work when they have completed the circuits and have nowhere else to go.

Just to add a couple of thoughts on the subject:
Generally I think the circuits work well, though agree in due couse a short supercircuit or font style 'off circuit' problems added occasionally could add a bit of interest to those quickly ticking off the vast majority of the hard circuit.

Also on the woody front, can appreciate the desire to avoid an elite area. I think it might be an idea to add a few smaller holds in the top half of hard circuit wall (maybe in an off circuit colour!) as the lower half footholds are good for making problems but need more scope at the top, this could then be a combined eliminates wall/circuits board. Bit of a compromise maybe but I would say most of the people attempting these circuits would probably also benefit from being able to try some shorter eliminate type problems too...

Keep up the good work!

If you want to cut costs make the holds smaller!

Its just good business sense. Some of those holds could have been molded into three or four good ones, instead theres a big jug which spins when you pull on it, leading to accidents and injury compensation claims.

Hmm, just joking really. I'd like to see the white circuit and some screamers. They are inspiring to me, an intermediate level climber. And I scream as well so whats all this against screaming? I see your point, however maybe there could be a mix of pushing grades and enjoying climbing in a natural way.

Bit of a mad idea, but why don't you sell the odd 'sponsored' route - 'This route was put here in the name of!'. Would make an interesting b-day present for someone, and if I can sponsor a giraffe at the zoo, why not!?

I'm only half serious really!

I have to agree that the wall is screaming out for another harder circuit. I have done half of the greens and would describe myself as only an average climber. Where are the probIems for better climbers? I have heard several people talking about the same thing and it seems like the walls major weekness at the moment. How can it be an academy if it doesn't allow people to train to elite levels?

Paul, just to say thanks for all the additions you're making - really makes a difference to the harder climbers, and brilliant to see you responding to feedback so constructively! Hope the leg's healing well, cheers.

Paul, the woody is awesome but is there anychance of nubering the holds or drawing a grid onto the wall so taht problems can be recorded in a book?

The other additons in the past few weeks have all improved what was already a great facility, cheers for all of the efforts and expense on your part

Just to draw to a close my initial comments that started this thread, I couldn't agree more with 'duma.' The TCA has responded brilliantly to our gripes and now the academy can in no way be regarded as mediocre! It's a proper job! Well done to all, the wealth of hard climbing has surpassed what was expected and I feel the standard of problems that have been set is really very very high. My respect to the routesetters! In fact the new whites are far too ard for me, but I hear some 12 year old whipper snapper is working his way through them without too much fuss!

The only thing that I can think to add still would be a harder and shorter circuit (10 to 15 moves) on the circuit board. I hear the word on the street is that a hard long circuit is planned for the board which will also be great, however, what i'm suggeting is something along the lines of the 'Ten Commandments' that used to exist at the 'Office' at the Foundry. This was on very small crimps (mostly the same shape) and as the name suggests was 10 sick hard locky moves long. It became something of a benchmark and you knew that if you could tick this then you were going well. I think what I liked about this was the fact that it was longer than a straight strength/power problem (despite it being really powerful and every move being 6c ish) and not too long that it fell into the stamina category and hence the need for the moves to become easier. It was bang on for fingery, locky power endurance. Plus there were no slopers so you didn't need to worry about hold conditions, a real benefit to have for part of a really useful hard training routine.

In the meantime here's looking forward to avoiding injury and becoming brute strong at a great venue as it stands ;-)

Cheers to all

Paul B.

You are already brute strong Paul, I dread to think what would happen if you trained. Glad you are enjoying my problems

Hi there, entering this thread a little late, but just from reading the first post... (*I'm only a novice/intermediate climber) and i realise there is demand for harder routes as above, and I agree that some walls are a bit sparse and i'd like to see a greater number and variety of routes (especially on the mothership which i quite like) not just on the harder grades but all.

However at the same time I want to say don't over do it... i quite liked how much space there was on the walls at TCA when i first went, reason being is that while i like the bouldering facilities at UCR also, i find some walls to be a little over crowded... and maybe it's just my sheer clumsiness but every now and then i end up smashing my elbows into other holds that are in the way - especially when doing more dynamic moves.

Like i said maybe it's just me and i need to be more careful :D by all means populate the wall more ! but maybe keep in mind that it's possible to over populate it!

Tom B