Noticeboard > Grades
The grade range on the Blue circuit is a bit smaller than you have suggested. It ranges from V4-V7 with exception of a few problems so roughly Font 6b to Font 7a+. Adding exact grades can cause lots of confusion and is actually quite hard to do with real acuracy. Keeping a circuit within a grade range boundary, as they are, is relatively easy and avoids grade disputes.
Mar 5 |
Will Eveson
Will Eveson
I don't see why it would cause confusion. You say that it's hard to grade with accuracy, which may or may not be true, but my point is that the grades don't need to be 100% accurate. They would just need to give a ballpark estimate to the difficulty. If a problem were graded 7a but actually panned out to be 6c+ then who cares? If I know that it's in the vicinity of 7a then that would help make a decision about whether or not to try it.
Mar 8 |
Anthony
Anthony
Hi Anthony
One of the reasons we don't give more exact grades at TCA is that we have found through many years of coaching that grades are often a limiting factor when it comes to people's climbing ability. By using a grade-range circuit, it takes away one more self-imposed limit and allows people the freedom to attempt problems without a grade stigma attached.
We initially trialled letting our customer grade the circuit problems on a board, but this was met with limited enthusiasm, so we have kept the Font-style colour grading which works well for the majority of our customers. We also build some overlap into our grade-adjacent circuits, again so people will push into the next circuit knowing there are a few problems easier than the circuit below.
From my personal experience, many of my best efforts on rock and plastic over the years have been where the grade of a problem or route was unknown. This allowed me, as hinted above, to climb beyond my usual ability, without the psychological restrictions that a grade would have almost certainly imposed.
We may start using a plus and minus for the harder and easier problems on a circuit soon though, to give a rough indication to soft touches and sandbags.
Paul
One of the reasons we don't give more exact grades at TCA is that we have found through many years of coaching that grades are often a limiting factor when it comes to people's climbing ability. By using a grade-range circuit, it takes away one more self-imposed limit and allows people the freedom to attempt problems without a grade stigma attached.
We initially trialled letting our customer grade the circuit problems on a board, but this was met with limited enthusiasm, so we have kept the Font-style colour grading which works well for the majority of our customers. We also build some overlap into our grade-adjacent circuits, again so people will push into the next circuit knowing there are a few problems easier than the circuit below.
From my personal experience, many of my best efforts on rock and plastic over the years have been where the grade of a problem or route was unknown. This allowed me, as hinted above, to climb beyond my usual ability, without the psychological restrictions that a grade would have almost certainly imposed.
We may start using a plus and minus for the harder and easier problems on a circuit soon though, to give a rough indication to soft touches and sandbags.
Paul
Mar 8 |
TCA
TCA
I, along with others I know, think it would be very useful if problems were given individual grades, especially on the harder circuits. The blue circuit for example ranges (I think) from Font 6a-7c, which means when I try a problem and I keep coming off on a move I don't know if it's because I'm on a 7c which is way out of my league or because I haven't found the 'trick'.
The grades wouldn't even need to be exact. Knowing a problem is around 7a is enough for me to keep trying it, and knowing another is 7c is enough for me not to waste my skin on it.
The individual grades would be an easy (and free) edition to make, and help me and others choose appropriate problems more effectively. Grades are given for competition circuits so I don't see why it can't be done for regular circuits.
I look forward to hearing other people's views.