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Dartmoor with TCA by Graeme Sandiford
Top Tips for Injury-Free Training at TCA by Neil Gresham
TCA Youth Squad at the CWIF 2010 by Oliver Edwards
Fontainbleau Basics by Archie Cameron-Blackie
Common Climbing Injuries part 1 - Fingers by Harry Kauntze
Common Climbing Injuries part 2 - Wrists by Harry Kauntze
Common Climbing Injuries part 3 - Elbows by Harry Kauntze
Common Climbing Injuries part 4 - Shoulders by Harry Kauntze
Top Tips for Competition Climbing by Gaz Parry
TCA's Font Guidebooks Review by Simon Starling
Stars of the Future by TCA
Elbow Injuries by Rupert Cross

Dartmoor with TCA

words and images by Graeme Sandiford

Getting out and doing some climbing on real rock is something that I’ve been planning to do for a long time, but there have always been reasons not to go. Investing in equipment like crash pads, finding the right time to go, the right people to go with, finding the right location and help with the transition from indoor climbing to dealing with the great outdoors.

However, temptation got the better of me early this summer on discovering that the TCA were running a series of day trips. The trip I went for was to Dartmoor as I had fond memories from my younger days and it’s not too far away. I wasn’t disappointed - the location was stunning and potential for climbing was mind-boggling.
What made the day such an experience was more than the national park’s beauty, it was the people. TCA members and staff alike, everyone was out to make the most of the granite and sunshine. Although Paul couldn’t make it, his hard work paid off as we were fully equipped with all that we needed including crash pads and well-researched route guides for the area.
This information was nicely augmented by our instructor Gavin who stood in for Paul. Gav knew the routes intimately was able to give re-assuring confirmation that if you reached further back behind here or there you would you would be able to find a good hold where there appeared to be none. After a few timid attempts you would realize that you could hold your weight on a tiny lump of quartz o the rock face. His enthusiasm was infectious and his patience helped as well.
All in all it was great day out and given me motivation to go outdoors more often. I’d always heard that climbing outdoors was different, but with the right guidance that difference is a good one and will broaden your climbing horizons and deepen your appreciation of this great sport.

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Top Tips for Injury-Free Training at TCA

words by Neil Gresham, image by Adrian Croome

See more from Neil at www.climbingmasterclass.com
Click here to download a printable A3 version of this poster

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TCA Youth Squad at the CWIF 2010

words by Oliver Edwards

When we got to Sheffield on the Saturday morning we were all fired up and ready to do some problems and to see what the CWIF could throw at us.  As we all walked in to The Works, I instantly realised that this was not going to be a very easy competition, we all sat down and got changed, meanwhile watching some other climbers attempts at the problems.
As we started the first climb we were a bit over excited and didn’t realise how hard the easy ones would be. Luckily we didn’t all get ahead of ourselves and all managed to on-sight the problem, and after that little scare, we all knuckled down to work and split into our own little groups to do the problems. About midway through the long 5 hour competition I started to see how good you had to be to really make it professionally in the climbing business.

As the Competition drew on we started to notice many of the Pro climbers that have recently come to TCA to coach our squad and give lectures. Gaz Parry, Steve McClure, and Adrian Baxter were all competing too.
There were 30 different problems to complete and 5 hours to complete them in, and from a personal point of view 20 of the problems were just about manageable and the other 10 basically impossible to on sight, let alone complete with the 4 attempts we were allowed.  The Qualifiers came to a slow end and the semis were not far off starting.

The semi-finals were incredible to watch because of the talent and core strength that went into doing these very hard boulder problems.  The squad were all rooting for Gaz, one of three male Brits to make it through. He has inspired us all with his many coaching sessions throughout the year!
Around the end of the semis, half of the squad (including myself) got on the bus to head back to Bristol, but the other half stayed and watched the competition to the  end and the next day went to Stanage (Peak District). Gaz managed a well deserved 5th place overall.

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Fontainbleau Basics

words and images by Archie Cameron-Blackie

Fontainebleau – Otherwise known as ‘Font’ is perhaps the best regarded, and most well developed, bouldering area on the planet.

With thousands of quality sandstone boulders in a calm and beautiful setting; there is enough there to supply even the most selective of climbers.

Travel and the Area

While the area is described as ‘Fontainebleau’ the boulders are actually located about 10 miles from the main town in several well defined areas in the Forêt de Fontainebleau about 40 miles south of Paris.   The areas generally have a short approach (no more than 10 minutes walk) from well sized car parks that are located close to main roads.

Leaving from London in the morning it is possible to reach Fontainebleau in less than 10 hours and still have time to climb in the evening. This makes it a feasible venue for Bank holiday weekends and week long breaks.

Who should go?

Everyone!

But seriously. If you enjoy climbing then there will be something in Fontainebleau that you will enjoy.

The type of climbing generally suits people who like slopers. The sandstone is often well weathered resulting in smooth holds which nevertheless hold enough friction if you use them in the right way. 

However, there are many problems and just as many holds to go with them. Crimps, pockets, pinches, slabs, underclings, highballs – whatever you look for will probably exist and push you to the limit in your chosen discipline.

What is it like?

Fontainebleau is old, there is a lot of history in the area and many of the first ascents at every grade were made there. Of course, since the boulder grading system used in most places around the world is named after the area this should not be surprising.

La Marie Rose (Font 6a) is perhaps the most famous of these routes and was the first of the grade - A Font classic.

Similar to the TCA method of route setting – the problems in Fontainebleau are split into ‘Circuits’ which have a colour associated with them. Routes are marked with painted numbers and contain problems of a similar (font) difficulty level.

The hardest problems are often ‘off circuit’ but located near to the circuit problems so there is no problem with a multi talented party still climbing together.

The important thing to remember about Fontainebleau is that problems there have been climbed a lot.

Some of the classic problems have been climbed so many times that every possible method of attempt may well have been used at some point in time.   This means that if an obscure method works remarkably well then there is a good chance the climb you are trying will feel completely undergraded until you know the trick.

It is not unheard of for world class climbers and veterans of the forest to fall off 5+ problems simply because they do not know about a cunning foot placement or a certain way of moving on the problem.

One thing that Fontainebleau respects and certainly teaches is exemplary technique.   Whether it be teaching your mind to trust your feet or perfect balance and footwork, if you can obtain some mastery of these climbing facets then many of the problems in Fontainebleau will feel like a breeze.

‘Pof’ vs Magnesium

In the UK we depend heavily on Chalk(Magnesium Carbonate).   In Font this is frowned upon by the locals because they believe it clogs the pores of the sandstone and makes the holds more slippy.

You are more likely to see the French climbers using ‘Pof’ which is a substance formed from dried resin. On sandstone they claim that this does not damage the rock and in fact aids in the stability of the top layer of rock. Unfortunately, using pof makes holds slippy once it hardens and then more pof is required to use the holds.

As the situation stands –the English continue to use chalk, but to save relations with the locals, we should try to keep usage to a minimum and try not to daub holds with a white mess.

When should you go?

Traditionally the best times to go to Font coincide with cool temperatures in order to gain the best friction from the rock.

Winter is obviously the coldest time of year but it can be temperamental with rain and snow.

Summer can be equally hot and sweaty, but if you start early then you get good conditions and sunbathing during the heat of the day.

In the end it depends on how comfortable you want to be.

For the past few years I have been during Easter and the start of summer.   Sometimes the holds have seemed greasy and frictionless, but this can usually be sorted with earlier mornings or harder pulling.

Where to Stay

There are a few common places to stay in Font:

The Musardiere Campsite is a nice option if you enjoy living in a tent. It is well positioned in the North-East of the area, about 10minutes walk from the quick drying area of Gorge au Chats and a short drive from the Trois Pignons and Franchard areas.

Maisonbleau is run by Neil Hart; who has set up a brilliant (and relatively cheap) gite in the South West.   Unfortunately this means that the distance to some of the main climbing areas is not really surpassable without a car. However, if you want to charge batteries or use the internet then the choice is simple. Neil is friendly and well informed regarding local beta having developed many of the new areas himself.

There are also a few gites to rent in the area but they tend to be a pricier option.

Several of the villages have bread shops which, combined with cheese/apples or pesto sauce provide a cheap and simple but nevertheless very tasty lunch.

Guidebooks

See TCA's Font guidebook review here.

 

Archie is a TCA Staff member and route-setter and is studying chemistry at Bath University

 

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Common Climbing Injuries part 1 - Fingers

 by Therapist Harry Kauntze

Look around at the bottom of any climbing wall and the mummified hands around you will tell that fingers bare the brunt of our love of rebelling against gravity and turning the evolutionary clock back 6 million years. No surprises there - the loads placed across whole chain of joints from shoulders to finger tips, accounts for a dazzling array of strains, sprains and ruptures, the most common of which is injury to the tendon pulley system is the fingers.

These pulleys tether and guide the flexor tendons (allowing the fingers to grip), as they run down your fingers. The pulleys can easily become sprained or sometimes ruptured completely, usually resulting in an audible crack and bowstringing of tendon.

Injury to the pulleys most commonly occurs then using a crimp or pinch grip and can either be the result of a one off overload (eg loss of footing while still hanging on) or by repetitive smaller injuries that undermine the pulley strength resulting in rupture. The latter is by far the most common and relatively easy to avoid.

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Common Climbing Injuries part 2 - Wrists

 by Therapist Harry Kauntze

Injury to the triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) in climbers.

If you are getting pain in the wrist during or after climbing then you may be damaging a meniscus like structure that helps stabilise your wrist joint called the triangular fibrocartilage complex.

 

There are lots of other structures that can also cause wrist pain as a host of tendons, nerves and bones/joints all lie in close proximity in this congested piece of anatomy.

 

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Common Climbing Injuries part 3 - Elbows

 by Therapist Harry Kauntze

Elbow pain is a very common affliction in climbers of all abilities.

Ill defined, dull and lingering pain just above the elbow after climbing is likely to be due to overuse and injury to either the brachialis or brachioradialis muscles and tendons.
These two muscles get overloaded and injured by sustained or repetitive forces across the elbow, by for instance, routes with dead hangs and rounded holds that require elbow ‘locking’ in flexion.


Less common but more clearly defined is lateral and medial epicondylitis.  In lateral epicondylitis a dull to sharp pain is felt around the bony protruberance on the upper aspect of the forearm at the elbow (backhand injury).   Medial lateral epicondylitis has the same symptoms but is felt around the bony protruberance on the under side of the forearm, near the funny bone (forehand injury).

Lateral and medial epicondylitis are felt at the elbow but are really caused by stresses across the hand and wrist with gripping manoeuvres especially on smaller holds.  As a consequence, pain is often felt with gripping or slipping off holds.

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Common Climbing Injuries part 4 - Shoulders

 by Therapist Harry Kauntze

The shoulder joint is highly flexible and with flexibility comes inherent instability – it’s a basic evolutionary trade off.

The shoulder acts as one of the main fulcrums when climbing so it has to cope with staggering multidirectional forces, which are controlled and absorbed by the rotator cuff muscles.  Imbalance or injury to these is a very common cause of shoulder pain. 
The most common of which is shoulder impingement. 


This is when one or more tendons get repetitively crushed under the acromion, especially when we use our arms above shoulder height.

Symptoms
●  Pain when raising the arms up to 90 degrees.
●  Discomfort when sleeping on your side
●  Pain extend to the neck and down the arm.

 

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Top Tips for Competition Climbing

words by Gaz Parry, image by Dave Simmonite

See more from Gaz at www.epic-adventures.eu
Click here to download a printable A3 version of this poster

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TCA's Font Guidebooks Review

words by Simon Starling

The Fontainebleau forest is home to over 10,000 boulder problems and as such, documenting them in one guidebook would be impractical (listings for all of the problems are however contained on www.bleau.info).

The range of guidebooks take different approaches in the way in which they are produced, meaning that they are suitable for different users.

 Broadly speaking there are three main different styles of guides: Circuit guides, Off-Circuit (Off-Piste) guides and those that are a mixture of both.

 Circuit guides describe circuits (in their entirety) at the different areas.

Circuits consist of a large number of different problems (all of a similar grade) that are numbered on the rock starting from 1. There are different difficulties of circuits in Font, these are distinguished by the colour used to number the problems similar to the way problems are set at TCA. 

Yellow 2a-3a

Orange font 3a-4a

Blue font 4a-5a

Red font 4c-6b

The white and black circuits can contain problems anywhere between font 5c up and into the 8’s.

Many problems in Font are “Off-Circuit” meaning that they aren’t numbered on the rock. The location of some Off Circuit problems are sometimes also indicated in Circuit guides. Similarly, stand-out problems that are On-Circuit are regularly included in “Off-Circuit” guides, however the difference being that these guides do not contain the full circuits.

Circuit style guides: 
Fontainebleau Magique
, Fontainebleau Climbs, Bleau en Bloc

Off-Circuit guides: 
Fontainebleau Off Piste, Fontainebleau 7 + 8, 
Font A Bloc: Vol 1

Circuit/Off-Circuit mixture: 
Essential Fontainebleau

The Guides...

Fontainebleau Magique by David Atchinson-Jones (2009)

This Jingo Wobbly guide selects 50 medium grade classic Fontainebleau circuits which are set in especially beautiful and quiet parts of the forest. Main popular areas, such as Diplodocus and Cul de Chien, are covered as well as some less well known circuits. The text is in English and French.

Illustrations: 200 colour photos, 50 topo-maps on double page spreads.

Price £24.99

Fontainebleau Magique is ideally suited to those that are relatively new to bouldering outside as it introduces the areas and a section on ‘Understanding Fontainbleau’. The guide focuses predominantly on lower graded circuits which makes it useful if you are taking the whole family. The photos are clear and include a wide selection of easier climbs, which is welcome change from guides that tend to include photos of hard test pieces. Its nice to see what the more amenable climbs look like too especially if you have not been to Font before. 

The guide covers 50 circuits but not for all areas so if you are keen to go to a particular area then it would be worth ensuring that your favoured crag is covered.

Fontainebleau Climb
s by Jo & Francoise Montchausse and Jacky Godoffe (2001)

Overhead topos and layout maps summarise Font's training circuits. This is the ‘purple’ circuit guide that most people use, have used or will use at some point to navigate round Font’s various circuits. Covers nearly forty areas, documents over 100 circuits and details the location of nearly 3000 problems.

Illustrations: Colour overview circuit topos

Price £19.95

This guide has been around for some time and is the most popular circuit guidebook there is to Font. It displays the circuits to all the popular areas and commonly visited areas and, as such, it is ideal for if you just wish to do circuits. It also contains a few popular off-circuit problems. Each section gives a summary about the area, then displays the circuits in the well used “bird’s eye view” overplan style topo. The individual problems are not described; however for some areas the names of problems are also given. This guide works well with it’s companion ‘Fontainebleau Off Piste’ and covers a large range of what Font offers. In our experience, sometimes the maps can be a little tricky to follow, however many of us have used this one guide for numerous trips.

Bleau en Bloc by Johanna Widmaier (2010)

This circuit style guide (written entirely in German) has 650 pages of full colour and easy to follow maps. There are enough action shots to maintain inspiration without encroaching on content.

There is a very good selection of maps, both the boulders themselves and the surrounding area, which is very useful if you haven’t visited font before. Each section introduces an area with a brief tabulated summary of the area in terms of walk in distance, landings, general topo, plus a list of the circuits available. This appears to be a very comprehensive guide, with plenty of detail and volume of climbs. It’s just a pity that all of the text is in German. Areas covered: Yvelines & Essonne Nord, L'Essonne rive gauche, Vallee de l'Ecole, Trois Pignons -West, Trois Pignons - Sud, Trios Pignons - Ost, Franchard, Apremont, Cuvier - Chatillon, Fontainbleau - Nord, Fontainbleau - Sud, Nemours, Larchant, Malsherbes

Price £38.50

Click to buy Bleau En Bloc

Fontainebleau Off Piste by Jo & Francoise Montchausse and Jacky Godoffe (2006)

The guide covers the harder problems in the main areas and also on many lesser known groups of boulders dotted around the forest. It includes some 3000 problems of grade 6 and above.

Illustrations: Overhead colour topos and maps.

Price £18.95

Off Piste is a good companion to the Fontainebleau Climbs guide and the combination of these two guides would work well if you wish to try a mixture of both Off and On Piste problems. Each area is briefly described, followed by overview-topo’s to show the problems.Area descriptions are further aided by the use of grade spread bar charts, these help in giving the user an idea of the range of problems, and thus it’s suitability for a visit.

Fontainebleau 7 + 8 by Bart van Raaij (2007)

A simple guide that targets those who want to climb 7a and harder. It contains a few of the harder 6c problems as well. Presently out of print, a new version is planned for release in 2012.

Font A Bloc: Vol 1 by Jacky Godoffe (2010)

This is a quality selected guide book to the bouldering directly around Fontainebleau. Text is in English. Featuring 5000 problems between 6a and 8c and contains full colour photo-topos, clear, well drawn overview maps, plus information about each area and general logistics of staying in the Fontainebleau area.

Illustrations: Colour photo-topos and overview maps

Price : £28.95

Covers: Isatis, Cuvier, Cuisiniere, Apremont, Salamandre, Rocher Canon, Rocher d’Avon, Gorges du Houx, Rocher Cassepot, Rocher du Calvaire, Rocher de Bouligny, Rocher Saint Germain, Rocher des Demoiselles and Mont Ussy – Roche Hercule. 

Usage

We found this book to be very easy to use and find the individual lines, mainly due to the use of photo topo for each bloc together with a brief description. The photos are clear, a good size and accompanying action shots are inspirational. The inclusion of a star rating assists in drawing your attention to the classic problems.

Problem choosing is further aided by the inclusion of a star system, ensuring that you’re aware of the classic lines. This is particularly useful for a destination like Font where the quantity of problems is so large. 

In general the climbs listed are biased around the 7s and 8s, but that is not to say that there isn’t plenty of 6s included.

Click to buy Font A Bloc

Essential Fontainebleau by John Watson (2008)

The bargain option at under £10 this guide covers 350 select problems spread over 40 areas. Each area is given an overview-topo, followed by photographs of the boulders with the classic lines marked out and brief descriptions guiding the climber through the secrets of each problem. 

Illustrations: Colour photo topos, 50 colour overview topos and maps

Price: £9.99

Similar in style to Font A Bloc: Vol 1, this miniture guide (15 x 10.5 cm) also uses the same system of overview map, followed by photo-topo and brief description to identify problems. This makes identifying different problems, and generally navigating your way around, easier. 

The slight difference with this guide (to Font A Bloc) is that the overview maps are also semi circuit-style topo’s; in that they selectively include some of the numbered circuits. One thing that I really like about this guide is that not only are On Circuit and “Off-Circuit” problems both included, but the best “On-Circuit” problems are also recommended. 

The guide is in colour throughout and (for it’s size) contains a good selection of action shots, which always helps when deciding where to go and what to get on.  

Due to the small size of the guide, it only includes around 350 problems and, as such, isn’t suitable for if you are intending to visit for a longer period of time.

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Stars of the Future

questions by TCA

Many of TCA's Youth Climbing Squad have been impressively working their way through a host of difficult boulder problems. In this article we delve into the lives of Hamish Potokar and James Squire to find out what makes them tick.

How old were you when you started climbing?

H:  I can’t actually remember, I‘ve always done a bit but got really in to it in the last few years.

J:  I started climbing about 2 years ago when I was 12.

How did you start climbing?

H:  I started with my Dad as he is a climber and has been doing it for a long time.

J:  I always did climbing but only about once a month, but I really got into climbing soon after TCA opened.

James relaxing at the British Bouldering Championships.

Who or what inspires you?

J:  Well my most inspirational climber has got to be Nalle Hukkatiaval, a world-class boulderer because of his videos/DVD’s and his amazing climbing lifestyle!

H:  People who can do really hard things but make it look really easy.  One person who really sticks out is Ty Landman in the film 'Between the Trees' where he crushes all the hardest boulders in Font while making them look so easy!

Where’s your favourite place to climb?

J:  My favorite place to climb is the boulder-filled beach of Porth Ysgo in North Wales, although locally I climb a lot at Bourton Combe and the Toll Road Crags in Bristol.

H: Definitely Font!  It’s got endless amazing bouldering in such a brilliant setting, it’s got to be the best!

Hamish and Laurie bouldering in Font. Image by Paul Twomey.

Are you interested in routes (sport or trad), ice or mountaineering?

H: Yeah, I haven't done much trad but have done a fair bit of sport.  The only problem is that I'm not too keen on the falling off, which doesn't really help!

J: I’m only really into Bouldering as my parents aren’t into climbing and it’s what I most enjoy doing outdoors but occasionally I do a few routes with some friends.

Does being in the youth squad help your climbing?

H: Definitely! You get to know lots of other young climbers and there’s a great opportunity for competitions.  There are also a number of trips outdoors which is great fun and coaching from top climbers like Gaz Parry, which is really inspirational!

J: Being in the youth squad has massively helped with my climbing as it’s given me the opportunity to enter national competitions and travel to places like the Peak District and North Wales, couldn’t live without the squad!

What do you see as your climbing strengths and weaknesses?

J: Personally I see my climbing strengths to be on more vertical/balancey problems with small/rubbish holds rather than more slopey or powerful problems on roofs or very steep overhangs.

H: My strengths are defiantly overhanging stuff.  I'm not so great on slabs though! Being short does have disadvantages but it also has lots of advantages as well, especially on bunched up, awkward things.

James on his own 7c traverse at Bourton Combe. Image from the Squire collection.

What is your top training tip?

J:  I don’t really train very often but I would definitely recommend climbing outdoors whether it’s locally or over the other side of the country as my climbing “sky-rocketed” after sessions outdoors over last Easter/summer.

H:  Don't just stick to your strengths but work the things you’re not so good at.

What advice would you give to other young people who would like to get into climbing?

J:  Just keep climbing, enter local competitions and keep going down to the wall and soon you will be really into it, just keep at it.

H:  Just go and try it out and if you enjoy it, great!  Also try and find other people you can climb with as this really helps to keep you psyched.

For you, what is the best thing about climbing?

J:  For me the best thing about climbing would be travelling around bouldering outdoors or indoors trying to climb as many hard boulders as I can.

H:  There are so many aspects, it’s hard to pick one thing.  I really like the movement and the way you progress through it.  It’s also a very sociable thing to do and the majority of climbers just seem to be really nice people!

Hamish and James can be spotted on various boulders throughout the country this summer.

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Elbow Injuries

by TCA Therapist Rupert Cross 

Elbow injuries seem to affect us all at some point in our climbing lives. The high impact of bouldering and sport climbing causes degenerative microtears to the tendons of the elbow. This is often referred to as golfers or tennis elbow, golfers being the inside of the elbow and tennis the outer. 

The symptoms are acute or chronic tenderness over the inside or outside bony points of the elbows made worse by gripping and performing activities such as using a screwdriver. A reduction in grip strength is sometimes found as well as reduced mobility of the elbow. 

On investigation of the elbow, on x-ray there is rarely any obvious changes to the bony structure. An MRI or ultrasound may sometimes show thickening of the tendon as it attaches the the bone. In some case, corticosteroids injections may provide short term benefits but there is no evidence over placebo in the long term. The corticosteriod does also come with some long term risks.

Treatment should start as early as possible. If the injury has just occured it is important to rest and to ice the area for 10-20 minutes every couple of hours. Anti nflammatories only in the early stages are beneficial and best if they are topical rather than oral.If the injury is chronic then cross fibre friction massage helps to break down scar tissue and improve blood supply. Stretching of the forearm muscles as well as the muscles of the shoulders are important. Progressive rehabilitation for the strength and stability of the forearm muscles should be done as soon as the symptoms allow. 

It is important to seek the advice and treatment of a physical therapist to aid you on the road to recovery. For further info on rehabilitation strengthening exercises or advice please email me or come along for a chat at TCA. 

Here is a video for a successful 'Golfers Elbow' rehab technique.

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