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Dartmoor with TCA by Graeme Sandiford
Top tips for injuy-free training at TCA by Neil Gresham
TCA Youth Squad at the CWIF 2010 by Oliver Edwards
Fontainbleau Basics by Archie Cameron-Blackie
Common Climbing Injuries part 1 - Fingers by Harry Kauntze
Common Climbing Injuries part 2 - Wrists by Harry Kauntze
Common Climbing Injuries part 3 - Elbows by Harry Kauntze
Common Climbing Injuries part 4 - Shoulders by Harry Kauntze

Dartmoor with TCA

words and images by Graeme Sandiford

Getting out and doing some climbing on real rock is something that I’ve been planning to do for a long time, but there have always been reasons not to go. Investing in equipment like crash pads, finding the right time to go, the right people to go with, finding the right location and help with the transition from indoor climbing to dealing with the great outdoors.

However, temptation got the better of me early this summer on discovering that the TCA were running a series of day trips. The trip I went for was to Dartmoor as I had fond memories from my younger days and it’s not too far away. I wasn’t disappointed - the location was stunning and potential for climbing was mind-boggling.
What made the day such an experience was more than the national park’s beauty, it was the people. TCA members and staff alike, everyone was out to make the most of the granite and sunshine. Although Paul couldn’t make it, his hard work paid off as we were fully equipped with all that we needed including crash pads and well-researched route guides for the area.
This information was nicely augmented by our instructor Gavin who stood in for Paul. Gav knew the routes intimately was able to give re-assuring confirmation that if you reached further back behind here or there you would you would be able to find a good hold where there appeared to be none. After a few timid attempts you would realize that you could hold your weight on a tiny lump of quartz o the rock face. His enthusiasm was infectious and his patience helped as well.
All in all it was great day out and given me motivation to go outdoors more often. I’d always heard that climbing outdoors was different, but with the right guidance that difference is a good one and will broaden your climbing horizons and deepen your appreciation of this great sport.

Top tips for injury-free training at TCA

words by Neil Gresham, image by Adrian Croome

TCA Youth Squad at the CWIF 2010

words by Oliver Edwards

Recently as a team member of TCA’s Youth Bouldering Squad, I went up to Sheffield to compete in the 2010 Climbing Works International Festival (CWIF). The Squad has a very large range of climbing abilities (strengths and weaknesses) so everyone had a good and equal chance in doing well in the competition.

When we got to Sheffield on the Saturday morning we were all fired up and ready to do some problems and to see what the CWIF could throw at us. As we all walked in to The Works, I instantly realised that this was not going to be a very easy competition, we all sat down and got changed, meanwhile watching some other climbers attempts at the problems.

As we started the first climb we were a bit over excited and didn’t realise how hard the easy ones would be. Luckily we didn’t all get ahead of ourselves and all managed to on-sight the problem, and after that little scare, we all knuckled down to work and split into our own little groups to do the problems. About midway through the long 5 hour competition I started to see how good you had to be to really make it professionally in the climbing business.

As the Competition drew on we started to notice many of the Pro climbers that have recently come to TCA to coach our squad and give lectures. Gaz Parry, Steve McClure, and Adrian Baxter were all competing too.

There were 30 different problems to complete and 5 hours to complete them in, and from a personal point of view 20 of the problems were just about manageable and the other 10 basically impossible to on sight, let alone complete with the 4 attempts we were allowed. The Qualifiers came to a slow end and the semis were not far off starting.

The semi-finals were incredible to watch because of the talent and core strength that went into doing these very hard boulder problems. The squad were all rooting for Gaz, one of three male Brits to make it through. He has inspired us all with his many coaching sessions throughout the year!

Around the end of the semis, half of the squad (including myself) got on the bus to head back to Bristol, but the other half stayed and watched the competition to the end and the next day went to Stanage (Peak District). Gaz managed a well deserved 5th place overall.

Oli is a TCA 09/10 squad member and nephew of multi-British Champion Lucy Creamer

Fontainbleau Basics

words and images by Archie Cameron-Blackie

Fontainebleau – Otherwise known as ‘Font’ is perhaps the best regarded, and most well developed, bouldering area on the planet.

With thousands of quality sandstone boulders in a calm and beautiful setting; there is enough there to supply even the most selective of climbers.

Travel and the Area

While the area is described as ‘Fontainebleau’ the boulders are actually located about 10 miles from the main town in several well defined areas in the Forêt de Fontainebleau about 40 miles south of Paris. The areas generally have a short approach (no more than 10 minutes walk) from well sized car parks that are located close to main roads.

Leaving from London in the morning it is possible to reach Fontainebleau in less than 10 hours and still have time to climb in the evening. This makes it a feasible venue for Bank holiday weekends and week long breaks.

Who should go?

Everyone!

But seriously. If you enjoy climbing then there will be something in Fontainebleau that you will enjoy.

The type of climbing generally suits people who like slopers. The sandstone is often well weathered resulting in smooth holds which nevertheless hold enough friction if you use them in the right way.

However, there are many problems and just as many holds to go with them. Crimps, pockets, pinches, slabs, underclings, highballs – whatever you look for will probably exist and push you to the limit in your chosen discipline.

What is it like?

Fontainebleau is old, there is a lot of history in the area and many of the first ascents at every grade were made there. Of course, since the boulder grading system used in most places around the world is named after the area this should not be surprising.

La Marie Rose (Font 6a) is perhaps the most famous of these routes and was the first of the grade - A Font classic.

Similar to the TCA method of route setting – the problems in Fontainebleau are split into ‘Circuits’ which have a colour associated with them. Routes are marked with painted numbers and contain problems of a similar (font) difficulty level.

The hardest problems are often ‘off circuit’ but located near to the circuit problems so there is no problem with a multi talented party still climbing together.

The important thing to remember about Fontainebleau is that problems there have been climbed a lot.

Some of the classic problems have been climbed so many times that every possible method of attempt may well have been used at some point in time. This means that if an obscure method works remarkably well then there is a good chance the climb you are trying will feel completely undergraded until you know the trick.

It is not unheard of for world class climbers and veterans of the forest to fall off 5+ problems simply because they do not know about a cunning foot placement or a certain way of moving on the problem.

One thing that Fontainebleau respects and certainly teaches is exemplary technique. Whether it be teaching your mind to trust your feet or perfect balance and footwork, if you can obtain some mastery of these climbing facets then many of the problems in Fontainebleau will feel like a breeze.

‘Pof’ vs Magnesium

In the UK we depend heavily on Chalk(Magnesium Carbonate). In Font this is frowned upon by the locals because they believe it clogs the pores of the sandstone and makes the holds more slippy.

You are more likely to see the French climbers using ‘Pof’ which is a substance formed from dried resin. On sandstone they claim that this does not damage the rock and in fact aids in the stability of the top layer of rock. Unfortunately, using pof makes holds slippy once it hardens and then more pof is required to use the holds.

As the situation stands –the English continue to use chalk, but to save relations with the locals, we should try to keep usage to a minimum and try not to daub holds with a white mess.

When should you go?

Traditionally the best times to go to Font coincide with cool temperatures in order to gain the best friction from the rock.

Winter is obviously the coldest time of year but it can be temperamental with rain and snow.

Summer can be equally hot and sweaty, but if you start early then you get good conditions and sunbathing during the heat of the day.

In the end it depends on how comfortable you want to be.

For the past few years I have been during Easter and the start of summer. Sometimes the holds have seemed greasy and frictionless, but this can usually be sorted with earlier mornings or harder pulling.

Where to Stay

There are a few common places to stay in Font:

The Musardiere Campsite is a nice option if you enjoy living in a tent. It is well positioned in the North-East of the area, about 10minutes walk from the quick drying area of Gorge au Chats and a short drive from the Trois Pignons and Franchard areas.

Maisonbleau is run by Neil Hart; who has set up a brilliant (and relatively cheap) gite in the South West. Unfortunately this means that the distance to some of the main climbing areas is not really surpassable without a car. However, if you want to charge batteries or use the internet then the choice is simple. Neil is friendly and well informed regarding local beta having developed many of the new areas himself.

There are also a few gites to rent in the area but they tend to be a pricier option.

Several of the villages have bread shops which, combined with cheese/apples or pesto sauce provide a cheap and simple but nevertheless very tasty lunch.

Guidebooks

There are a fair few good guide books to the region which cover different things to a differing level of detail.

Fontainebleau Climbs: contains many of the circuits in the forest and quite a few of the harder, non circuited problems.

Essential Fontainebleau: a very selective guide, but small and contains good topos of the best problems in each area.

7+8: a simple guide that targets those who want to climb 7a and harder. It contains a few of the harder 6c problems as well. For my money it has the best maps of the areas.

Finally the main source of info on Fontainebleau should be the website http://bleau.info

This website is a comprehensive source of information on problems and issues surrounding the ethics of the forest.

Archie is a TCA Staff member and route-setter and is studying chemistry at Bath University

Common Climbing Injuries part 1 - Fingers

by TCA Therapist Harry Kauntze

Look around at the bottom of any climbing wall and the mummified hands around you will tell that fingers bare the brunt of our love of rebelling against gravity and turning the evolutionary clock back 6 million years. No surprises there - the loads placed across whole chain of joints from shoulders to finger tips, accounts for a dazzling array of strains, sprains and ruptures, the most common of which is injury to the tendon pulley system is the fingers.

These pulleys tether and guide the flexor tendons (allowing the fingers to grip), as they run down your fingers. The pulleys can easily become sprained or sometimes ruptured completely, usually resulting in an audible crack and bowstringing of tendon.

Injury to the pulleys most commonly occurs then using a crimp or pinch grip and can either be the result of a one off overload (eg loss of footing while still hanging on) or by repetitive smaller injuries that undermine the pulley strength resulting in rupture. The latter is by far the most common and relatively easy to avoid.

Ask Harry injury related questions on his noticeboard thread.

For more information and treatment contact Harry on 07754763460, visit www.bristolbackpain.co.uk or see his profile on our Injury page.

Common Climbing Injuries part 2 - Wrists

by TCA Therapist Harry Kauntze

Injury to the triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) in climbers.

If you are getting pain in the wrist during or after climbing then you may be damaging a meniscus like structure that helps stabilise your wrist joint called the triangular fibrocartilage complex.

There are lots of other structures that can also cause wrist pain as a host of tendons, nerves and bones/joints all lie in close proximity in this congested piece of anatomy.

Ask Harry injury related questions on his noticeboard thread.

For more information and treatment contact Harry on 07754763460, visit www.bristolbackpain.co.uk or see his profile on our Injury page.

Common Climbing Injuries part 3 - Elbows

by TCA Therapist Harry Kauntze

Elbow pain is a very common affliction in climbers of all abilities.

Ill defined, dull and lingering pain just above the elbow after climbing is likely to be due to overuse and injury to either the brachialis or brachioradialis muscles and tendons.
These two muscles get overloaded and injured by sustained or repetitive forces across the elbow, by for instance, routes with dead hangs and rounded holds that require elbow ‘locking’ in flexion.

Less common but more clearly defined is lateral and medial epicondylitis. In lateral epicondylitis a dull to sharp pain is felt around the bony protruberance on the upper aspect of the forearm at the elbow (backhand injury). Medial lateral epicondylitis has the same symptoms but is felt around the bony protruberance on the under side of the forearm, near the funny bone (forehand injury).

Lateral and medial epicondylitis are felt at the elbow but are really caused by stresses across the hand and wrist with gripping manoeuvres especially on smaller holds. As a consequence, pain is often felt with gripping or slipping off holds.

Ask Harry injury related questions on his noticeboard thread.

For more information and treatment contact Harry on 07754763460, visit www.bristolbackpain.co.uk or see his profile on our Injury page.

Common Climbing Injuries part 4 - Shoulders

by TCA Therapist Harry Kauntze

The shoulder joint is highly flexible and with flexibility comes inherent instability – it’s a basic evolutionary trade off.

The shoulder acts as one of the main fulcrums when climbing so it has to cope with staggering multidirectional forces, which are controlled and absorbed by the rotator cuff muscles. Imbalance or injury to these is a very common cause of shoulder pain.
The most common of which is shoulder impingement.

This is when one or more tendons get repetitively crushed under the acromion, especially when we use our arms above shoulder height.

Symptoms
● Pain when raising the arms up to 90 degrees.
● Discomfort when sleeping on your side
● Pain extend to the neck and down the arm.

Ask Harry injury related questions on his noticeboard thread.

For more information and treatment contact Harry on 07754763460, visit www.bristolbackpain.co.uk or see his profile on our Injury page.